GC: Day 4 Indian Garden - South Rim

Final day of the trip, can't believe we are almost done, the rim - 2 - rim hike. After last nights decision of getting up early to see sunrise at sunset point (plateau point actually), surprisingly Sree really got up early. Rise and shine early with Rahul and then there was no stopping them. They both woke us all up and we started the 1.5 mile trail to plateau point to see sunrise. It seemed like a really long trail, it was the long flat trail that you can see from South Rim also. The end was very rewarding though. From this point, we could see the river and lot of the canyon. We also caught first few rays of the sun falling on the high peaks, and mist in the valley. As the sun rose, more coloures came into view. This is definately a point you should not miss. Only about 5 miles from South Rim, this should be open through out the year and should be doable in a day. Returning from plateau point, we also saw a group of deers.

After plateau point, it was just back to South Rim. Its a 4.6 mile hike up 3060 feet. There were 1.5 and 3 mile rest stops, no water in either, but they were like first mile markers and the only ones in the whole trip. I was little scared of the hike, as uphill is always difficult. As we packed the bags, I was quite happy to see that most of the food is gone, I had packed well, very few extra stuff. There was enough food to go up, and we took just enough water, not too much this time. This was again lot of switchbacks. One place we passed thoough a narrow gap in the canyon, the set of switch bags looked great. Srijan thought that the hike was "boring", well maybe it was. The view was just the same canyon, going further and further away. But I think it was good for going up, smooth and relaxing. We made it up in good time. At the top as the lodge came closer, it was just amazing feeling, we had done it, and done it well. I was lot more scared than I needed to be, and we did it at the perfect time of the year.
Here is all the data:
http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/trail-distances.htm
Day 1 we hiked 6.8 miles, 4170 ft ele loss
Day 2 we hiked 7.3 miles, 1600 ft ele loss
Day 3 we hiked 4.7 miles, 1320 ft ele gain + river detour
Day 4 we hiked 4.6 miles, 3060 ft ele gain + plateau point detour.

GC - Day 3 - Bright Angel - Indian Garden

Day 3 rise and shine. Today we got up, little tired but excited about finally getting to touch the river. But before that a visit to dhobi ghat was important. We went to the bright angel creek and washed clothes. We actually put up ropes and dried clothes there. Now was time for the river, we took the small trail down. Finally the mighty colorado which along with its tributaries and esturies created this huge canyon. Looking at the river you cannot say that. Today it flows as a small river, looking every smaller than hudson (ok I feel really bad for making this comparison, kahan poor hudson in NY, kahan beautiful colorado). At the river we met a group of rafters on a 21 day long trip across the river, what it trip that would be! This river is suppose to have level 10 rapids!! We stayed on the ground, and that is where I would like to stay. Saw a mule trail (thankfully the only one we met on the trail) We went on the 'black bridge' which is part of South Kabiab trail. As usual got our feet wet in the water, took photos and headed back to the camp.

Breakfast was again maggie. Today was the day to eat a lot and make the packs lighter, and today was also the day to start our ascend. It was scary, it was hot and it was also the beginning of the end (already!). We left earlier that yesterday, around 11. We had about 4.5 miles to go today, all uphill of course. We crossed the river at silver bridge. Some scary bridge it was, all shaking, and deep pahadi river below. After crossing the bridge, we were surprised by a sudden very sandy section of the trail, it was like walking on the beach. No idea where it came from, probably left over from the time when river used to be at that level. It also brought the discussion about intelligent design vs evolution. Not so much as a discussion but aghastness at highly educated, engineers talking about "intelligent design" (Rahul and Sree to me more specific), what freaks!. Thankfully sand was short lived and we were back on the stony trail. This trail was also marked by mule droppings and its smell, not very pleasant. But then we knew this. We had already experienced the real canyon by now, but the trail still held some surprises and vistas. After a short climb, we came upon a cave, with a caveman instinct, the guys could not help explore it. Arindam was perfect to pose as the caveman in front the it. Today's trail also had devil's cork-screw, a steep windy set of switchbacks. As we climbed higer, depth of the canyon became clearer and new peaks came into view, hiding behind walls in front. Among switchbacks there were also postcard photo spots.

By this time, South Rim was also visible, but seemed very very far. Towards the end, we saw a small teela, and Sree thought it was a good idea to climb it. So we did, and it showed us even more views of the high peaks, kind of like a 270deg view. The surprise never ends. But by this time, we were also tired, hungry and I really wanted to get to the campsite and put the backpack down. From the teela we saw a really long flat trail going somewhere, I was hoping it was not our trail. And it was not, it was the plateau point trail, which we could have taken later to see sunset. We were quite near the Indian Garden. This was a smaller campsite and was again crowded. Since we were quite late, we got a ok campsite. This one place was appropriately named, it was a garden in middle of all the rocks. It was almost dark by the time we reached, and between Srees hurting big toe, Surya's small toe and everyone else's hurting leg muscles (except Rahul's, who does not have any), we had no enthu to explore anything more. Of course mustard all came to rescure, Rahul, I and Sree put a lot of it for pain relief. Srijan wanted some for his "dry skin", but there was none to spare, wish I had added couple of extra drops in the bottle!.

Dinner was again backpacking food, kathmandu curry was a hit and I think its a really good idea to incorporate it in our daily diet. Every tuesday, no cooking, no washing, nothing, just enjoying the curry. Rahul was not too enthued by the idea, and since he cooks, its ok. After stuffing ourselves with lot of food, it was time to sleep. It was surprisingly cold here, and we were amond jungly area, fox, snakes, racoons are common here. Thankfully we did not see any. Since we had missed the sunset, we decided to get up before sunrise and go to the sunset point to see sunrise, haa haa, get up before sunrise, hee hee.

GC: Day 2 - North Kabiab - Bright Angel

After having a good night's sleep, Rahul and I got up quite early. We saw the canyon in moon-light, and dawn light, which was somewhat scary. Then soon sun started coming up, and it became very beautiful. Sun rays starting at the high peaks. Unlike most of our campings, this time, no one was in any hurry to leave. We took our time, getting up, Sree as usual very late, closely followed by Arindam. We had a good breakfast of maggie. Getting ready, packing up, chit chatting, it was almost noon by the time we started! And we had about 6 mile to go. It was going to be a very warm day and this was also the day we were to pass through the "box" known for its high walls and very hot air. Short way into the hike, we came upon Ribbon falls. This was also a detour to the fall. So we set our bags down and took the trail. It took us to this really beautiful fall, which was more like Rainbow fall then Ribbon fall, though it was thin, long and wide, so can be thought of as ribbon. The best part was we good go behind the fall. It was really cool !! Thanks to the warm temperatures, we could get wet in water. We spent about half an hour there, taking photos, playing with water.

Back on the main trail, it was suppose to be almost flat, and all along a creek. So we did not really need to carry lot of water on this day, but we did anywhere. Soon we started seeing all the wonders of the canyon. One temple after another came into view. Vishnu temple, Brahma temple and then Tulika's palace. As we travelled along the canyon walls, more vistas started opening up, one peak after other showing its beauty from all sides. At a point, we will suddenly start looking at a completly new part of canyon, looking very different from rest of it. The colours and vastness of the scene could not at all be captured in the camera. I think this was the best day of the hike, you experience the real canyon here, and good thing that it was all flat. Very soon we entered the box, there were really high canyon walls on both sides, the bright angel creek snaking in the middle and our trail along one wall. There were numerous bridges taking us from one wall to other. It was just dreamy being there, best luck was that it was not at all hot, infact it was on the cool side and very comfortable. I can imagine this part of the hike being really difficult if its hot.

By the time we came out of the box, we were also very tired. Walking flat though easy, but also has a monotony, even in this every full of surprises canyon. It was also getting late and dark. It had been a very long day. Finally phantom ranch came in view, a very inviting dining hall, and cabins. But our destination was campgrounds another half a mile away. By the time we reached bright angel campgroup, it was almost dark. Finally after almot 2 days of being very close to nature and away from other human beings, we reached at this really crowded campground. We got a campsite, quickly made dinner and then went to sleep.

The story - either today or yesterday the texan told us a story about this really old guy (80 did he say?) who keeps shuttling from one rim of the canyon to other, and he hands over these t-shirts to women which say "I went all the way with ....." (forgot the name). We did not meet him though.

GC: Day 1 North Kabiab - Cottonwood

ok, so its here, we are at the North Rim, all packed, ready to go. Most of us carrying < 30 lbs. Surprisingly I was not scared much, somehow I believed that I can do this. From the Jacob lodge, we got a ride to the trail head. The guy who gave us ride had lived in that area long, was one of those 1-day rim2rim hikers. He told us stories about beauty of the canyon when he was young, about how govt messed everything up trying to preserve it. Nothing surprising, but almost heart breaking and disgusting for a nature lover like me. Unfortunately for us, this was the time when they routine light fires at North Rim (don't ask :|). So the whole canyon was filled with smoke. We really could not see much during our descent. The trail started quite steep. It was very well maintained, full of switchbacks. We started with gloves, sweaters and caps which were soon off in 20 min. Through the smoke, we got glimpses of the canyon, its depth and the sheer rock faces. One good thing about the canyon hike is that when your bags are heaviest, you are hiking down, which may be bad for your knees later, but was good for the trip.

There was very little water on this trail. We soon spotted a water tap and rest rooms, but there was no water in the tap, they probably turn it on in summer. With the help of some windy steep switchbacks, we were very soon deep down in the canyon (which we will later discover was nothing compared to where we were going). We could look back and see very high, straight up, coloured cliffs all around. We crossed a small bridge, and were looking for our next destination, Roaring springs. It was not long before we started hearing its roars, and also seeing the signs of human distruction (or maintenance as they call it), water pipes, ladders etc. The man with the van (who gave us ride), told that we will see those water pipes, and that water from the spring is pulled up to north rim and from there it travels through these pipes by gravity and serves all of south rim and campgrounds in between. Quite amazing.

Roaring springs was not far, a beautiful waterfall. That was the first place we could put our bags down, relax, eat lunch and chocolates. There was half a mile detour. (mind you it was not written anywhere how far it is, though there was space to write on the sign board!) We started off on the detour without the packs, hoping it will take us close to water, and it did, but to a water tap. The detour apparantly did not lead anywhere, just close to some creek, and some picnic benches in the middle of nowhere.

After we came back from the spring, we were eager to get to the campsite. From that spot, we could see some trees and a man-made structure, and wanted to convince ourselves that its the camsite. But it was not. After about a mile from there, we saw another clearing and a house like structure. That was also not the campsite, but actually someone's house. Our campsite was about another mile from there. We reached the campsite with enough day light. It was almost empty, just a small Texan group who had been with us throughout the hike. Sree though it was a million dollar home view from there, I guess it was.

We found a good campsite, close to water. We put down our bags and went straight for the water. It was quite warm here and it was really nice putting feet in water. There again we met the texans, enjoying their drinks near water. After refreshing, we also filled water from the creek for drinking and cooking. Dinner was some backpacking food, delicious beans and rice, kathmandu curry and what not. Now relaxed and eaten, we played 29 for some time. I also tried to do some star gazing, but it was all too cloudy. Went to sleep quite early as there was nothing else to do.

GC: Day 0

5 months later, its 28th Oct and we are all gathered in Flagstaff. Some of us actually had dinner at a Indian restaturant in Flagstaff, and really good Delhi food. In the morning we drive to South Rim to take a shuttle to North Rim. The ride to North Rim was pretty much uneventful. On the way we got glimpses of some canyons, dry land and Marbel canyon. We reached Jacon in at a comfortable time. The Inn was ok, cabins were nice, food was ok too. We expected it to be really cold there, the forecast was showing -4 and all, but it was quite ok. A jacket was enough. It was exciting, scary, apprehensive time! While we waited for the food, we played 29.

Grand Canyon Rim 2 Rim hike

We finally did it!! about a year back when I first heard from Tarun and Yogita about this hike, I thought backpacking is something I can never do. So rim to rim canyon is something totally out of reach for me. But somehow over the year, I would say after marathon, this seemed more achievable. 4 months back we planned, prayed and finally got the permit. And then last week I actually did the hike and I did not complain, crawl or barely made it, I did it well.

It started one fine day when Rahul and I thought we will go to grand canyon and backpack. It was scary, backpack! carry all that weight! and then also do one of the very difficult hikes! arranging all the gear etc. But the thought of going there, being in the canyon was very inviting. Now we needed the group. So I asked the usual seattle group. After lot of I going here, I am going there, we had a quorum, the best group I could ask for Rahul and I, Srijan, Sree, Arindam and Aparajita. Though Aparajita had to drop out for various reasons, we missed you on the trip.

Now the biggest questions, permit. As we soon discovered, they are not easy to get, and between Rahul's school, AllGos, problem was even harder. After 20 phone calls, 50 conv long thread, we got that too for end of Oct, after 5 months. I was little apprehensive about the timing, if it snowed! if it was scary cold! But it was our best luck, the weather turned out to be just PERFECT.

contd.....